THE ISLANDS OF HAWAI'I
HAWAI'I
THE BIG ISLAND
DAY 1
We dropped our car off at the Honolulu airport and boarded a normal-sized plane to Hawai'i, referred to as The Big Island, without incident. A 45 minute flight landed us at the Kona Airport. What a relief to arrive at this small, casual airport!
On the recommendation of the car rental shuttle driver, we drove to Hapuna Beach Park. Kona is on the leeward side of the island, and we had our first experience of the dry side of tropical islands:
Parched-dry.
According to the shuttle driver, Hapuna Beach is rated one of the best beaches in the world. We found it beautiful indeed.
We were somewhat disconcerted to see mesquite trees along the beach. We'd traveled a long way from Arizona to find the same desert trees!
From the beach we drove to the Pololu Trail. For the first but not last time, we saw this type of warning sign, to be taken seriously!
Though this trail went to the black sand beach seen here, we chose to go only a short distance and take in the spectacular views.
From this trail, we took a leisurely sight-seeing drive around the north part of the island. This misty greenness in the north-most part
gave way to yet another familiar sight.
Yep, that's prickly pear cactus!
For its historic value, we had chosen the Manago Hotel as our lodgings in Captain Cook.
The Manago family founded the hotel in 1917, and it is currently run by the third generation. It's simple and charming. This is the courtyard view,
and the view from our small balcony, with the ocean in the background.
DAY 2
We were awakened briefly several times during the night and in the morning by the sound of this cock-a-doodle-doo.
We had noticed feral chickens in the outlying areas in Oahu, but on Hawai'i we were more up close and personal. A bit of research revealed feral chickens are on most or all tropical islands, and have been for centuries. The stories of their introduction are many, including Polynesian, Asian, and European origins. This Moa rooster was typically beautiful, and each rooster had several less vibrantly colored hens. As these small flocks were often in the same area, the roosters always seemed to be guarding their harem, with lots of herding-type attempts, and plenty of cock-a-doodle-doo between them. Being products of the farm, neither Ron nor I minded the crowing, but when we mentioned it to our waitress at the hotel restaurant, she immediately apologized and said they were not able to do anything about them. Apparently some people mention it in a complaining way. There were enough feral chickens around that a person who might be in a unfortunate way wouldn't have any reason to go hungry. I asked our waitress if people did eat the chickens. Her reaction of "not here" included the implication that it "wasn't done". I didn't press for any more information.
As we were on the Kona side of the Big Island, we chose to spend the morning sampling the most premium of coffees, 100% Kona Coffee. This was our first stop, and included free tastings and a small museum.
Next was
The young couple managing the plantation had only been doing so for about a year. They gave us a tour, which was very informative about the ins and outs of coffee growing, harvesting, and processing. To be branded 100% Kona Coffee, there are very specific criteria about where and how it's grown and harvested, which is what gives the coffee it's distinctive characteristics.
Our final coffee stop was
No one was available for a tour, so we did just the tasting. By the time we finished here, Ron, who drank more coffee than I, was having a hefty case of coffee jitters.
Other stops on our way included this remarkable church.
A long view of the altar.
A couple of samples of the murals on the walls that gave the church its name:
We made a delightful visit to Big Island Bees.
We could not have a tour that included the live hives, as there had been several tours by the time we arrived and they didn't want to upset the bees. Instead, our guide, Joe, gave us a most entertaining and informative talk about more than we could have imagined about bees.
We bought a jar of cinnamon flavored honey, not thinking at the time that it was over the 5 oz weight we could fly back home. Too bad so sad; we managed to eat it all before that happened!
Next, the Kealakekua Beach Park on Kealakekua Bay. There was a small grassy park area with an entry point for snorkeling. The beach itself was dramatically lava in nature:
Our final destination for this day was the Pu'uhonua o Honaunau National Historical Park.
This park was historically a royal residence and grounds for chiefs, their attendants and servants. Hawaiians are close to their history. The brochure for the park includes this statement: "Remember, this is a sacred place; please be respectful." We enjoyed the sights along the walking tour for a couple of hours.
We checked out of the Manago Hotel while it was still dark, and headed for Hawai'i Volcanoes National Park.
This park was beyond imagining. We commented on the smoke we saw in the distance while driving in. At the park entrance we asked if there was a fire, and the Ranger said, "Oh, that's the volcano!" That would be Kilauea, a live volcano. Here's a closer view of the smoke we saw, and the crater from which it arose.
These are volcanic gas emissions along the roadway.
This trail
led to these smoking Sulfur Banks.
We walked through a lava tube.
The Devastation Trail was the result of a 1959 eruption.
This park encompasses a huge amount of land, plus a huge variety of landscape. Our visit ended with this view of the Holei Sea Arch.
Our destination for the evening was Hilo, which is on the windward side of the island. Along the way, we stopped at this Orchid Garden
and were goggle-eyed at the color and variety of orchids inside.
Our stay in Hilo was at Aaron's Cottage B&B.
Again, simple but adequate.
Our arrival in the afternoon gave us time to explore this garden park.
This banyon tree was a star in the park.
Being on the windward side means rain, and a local we talked to said Hilo gets rain every single day, with an annual rainfall of 126 inches. Hilo Bay is also subject to tsunamis. After a certain amount of doomed rebuilding, wisdom took hold and the tsunami-affected areas were turned into parks. Now known as the City of Parks, the coastal areas easily recover instead of the devastation that results when buildings and living areas are affected.
Proof we were on a tropical island:
Day 4
After the delicious breakfast part of our Bed and Breakfast, Rainbow Falls was our first stop. The mist from the falls can cause a rainbow to form.
We saw this faint version.
Next, Boiling Pots. There are deep pools carved into the waterway, giving the area its name.
More of those danger signs going down to the river. Ron couldn't resist, so I took this picture in case it was the last time I saw him. Once down a ways, he thought better and came back up.
Our next stop was my favorite place on all the islands. Part of its charm is its back story and since I chose to enjoy this garden without the distraction of the camera, I'll share the story.
The Vision of Dan Lutkenhouse
The Garden was created through the untiring efforts of one man, Dan J. Lutkenhouse, who discovered Onomea Valley in 1977 while vacationing with his wife, Pauline. Mr. Lutkenhouse purchased the 17-acre parcel for its seclusion and beauty, without knowing exactly what to do with it. Quickly abandoning ideas for a commercial venture which would destroy the natural environment, he decided instead to establish a botanical garden to preserve the valley and its beauty forever. When first located by the Lutkenhouses, Onomea Valley was an overgrown and virtually impenetrable jungle, choked with wild invasive trees, weed and thorn thickets, and strangling vines.
Mr. Lutkenhouse sold his 40-year-old trucking business in San Francisco and moved to the island of Hawaii in order to devote himself full time to the development of the Garden.
Every day for eight years, Pauline would pack Dan a brown bag lunch and he would disappear into the jungle, returning at night dirty and tired, but happy. During that time Dan, his assistant Terry Takiue, and two helpers worked with cane knives, sickles, picks, shovels, and a chain saw clearing paths through the jungle. All the work was done by hand to avoid disturbing the natural environment or destroying valuable plants and tree roots. The men kept a slow and easy pace, so as not to suffer heat stroke or dehydration in the steamy jungle. The work would continue seven days a week until the Garden opened to the public in 1984.
Trails were hewn from hard lava rock with picks and shovels. To keep the soil from compacting and the natural beauty from being destroyed, no tractors were used; excess rock was removed and gravel brought in by wheelbarrow. Mr. Lutkenhouse followed the contours of the land in designing the Garden trails, which curve and wind their way throughout the jungle. Gradually, secret landscapes revealed themselves. It took years of carefully clearing the jungle before Mr. Lutkenhouse discovered the crown jewel of the Garden - a three-tiered waterfall said to be the most beautiful in all Hawaii.
Though Mr. Lutkenhouse has no formal botanical training, with his love of nature he has created a living tapestry in keeping with the intimate nature of the site. Subtle vistas unfold as you meander along the Garden paths. Patterned foliage and brilliantly colored flowers invite close inspection, enticing you further into the mysteries of the jungle. This is the allure of paradise. The Hawaiians have a word for it - aina, or "the spirit of the land."
Our last visit was to the Akaka Falls State Park.
The main falls,
and water,
water,
everywhere.
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